Machu Picchu

Boxing Day which is normally a lazy day of yet more stuffing of faces was quite different for us this year. Our party of 9 set off on a morning flight to Cusco. Upon arrival we downed copious cups of coca tea and knocked back sorachi pills like they were smarties in fear of suffering from the altitude (3,800 metres). We had a little snooze, loaded up the back packs (wisely we added raincoats) and set off on our first tour of the city. It got wetter as the day wore on and the chicas enthusiasm for all things Incan diminished as the temperature dropped. The adults conceded defeat. We ended up in an Italian cafe playing gin rummy while eating trout. Trout is a Peruvian staple and the only thing Italian on the menu was Spaghetti Bolognese which I hardly consider Italian these days as it is on every menu from Australia to Zambia (OK I have never eaten it in Zambia but you get my drift.)
The next day we packed up and visited more Incan ruins (The first ruins we saw I can not spell in Spanish or Quechua but when pronounced correctly it sounds like Sexy Woman!)and headed to more ruins and our next hotel near Ollaytantambo. We had to get off the tour bus and wait on a bridge with all our bags and I started to get nervous when 3 local taxis pulled up we piled in and bounced down bumpy roads and dirt tracks. I could feel myself shrinking inside and the burden of responsibility weighing heavy. As it is was I who did all the planning and arranging for the trip. (Everything looks 4 Star Hiltonesque on Internet virtual tours) We disappeared in to a corn field and I had visions of a shack. Then I heard the rush of the Urabamba river, saw llamas grazing ( do they indeed graze? I know they spit!) and gazebos & flowers presented themselves in a very pleasing array. Our surroundings were salubrious. It was hard to pack up and leave early the next morning for the train to Aguas Calientes.
The train was so relaxing and entrancing. It took me back to yesteryear when rail travel was an event and quite civilized. We had china and linens on the table, breakfast was served by a smiling young chica. The flora and fauna changed as we moved down from Cusco to the Sacred Valley. The train had glass top and sides to lend it's self to panoramic views. Arriving at our destination the station was buzzing with people and guides. Our bags were whisked off to our hotel and we were led to our bus.
Machu Picchu was as breath taking as everyone said it would be although there were too many people to enjoy it fully. We took a short hike and enjoyed the peace and quiet further up at Intipuku and took lots and lots of photographs. The park keeper blew his whistle at us several times so we would leave and they could close up. Not sure if this is the correct title or if indeed it is a park but we took the hint and left. After the bus ride back to town the adventure continued as I tried to find our hotel (one with a totally unpronounceable name).
As we shuffled along the train tracks(no exaggeration here we were jumping on and off of the rails looking for a hotel or some such establishment with a roof. There was also a lot of oohing and aahing at stray kittens and puupies. We found it and our bags had made it too ( Relief) and then ensued a Fawlty Towers like scene with 9 of us up and down 3 flights of stairs breathless/keys missing/husband taking a shower in the wrong room/moving of suitcases and people/realisation our train left at night not morning and many trips to the station master to change the tickets.
I awoke to the shrill whistle of the 6.00 a.m. train. We stood at the window and could have easily reached out to touch the dusty, grimy roof of the train. It was so unreal. I tried to imagine doing that from Platform 11 with the Oxford-Paddington express rolling by and just could not visualize it!
Our return train trip was equally as jolly as they provided a sample of local dancing and a fashion show of Alpaca knitwear. As soon as I heard Abba hit the airwaves I knew I had to grab hold of hubby before he plunged out of the window on to the tracks and straight in to level 4 rapids on the Urabamba. All this is less torture for him than an Abba CD. The poor wait staff who only minutes before had been serving tea and muffins now had to model sweaters to the tunes of Abba/Pet Shop Boys and other all male boy bands from the 80's. On top of that the customers were clapping, whistling and calling out like they were in a strip club. Wonder who the Music Director is and if my fellow train travellers get out much? If they could reach such heightened excitement at the sight of V-neck pullovers and pashmina's one has to assume not very often!
Back to the hotel in Cusco and the chicas were in no mood to partake of museum tours and talk of Conquistadors, so we left them happily sipping sodas in a cafe on the plaza whilst playing yet another round of Gin Rummy. We returned for them hours later and they hardly noticed we were back until we mentioned shopping/market/silver/souvenirs/. The waiter was very happy with his babysitting money come generous tip.
That night at dinner we sat looking down on the plaza re-living moments from our trip while an electrical storm played out and catching roaches with our wine glasses! We had a mad dash back to the hotel as the rain lashed down and soaked us all.
Up early the next morning to fly back to Lima we were told fog in Lima had delayed the flight. Adults slept and chicas (you guessed it) played Gin Rummy. We made it back in time for lunch.
We had a great visit and have lots of photos to show for it. Quite what one does with 56 pics of llamas I do not know but we have them just in case anyone should like to see them.
I would tell anybody who has the chance and time to go and see Machu Picchu before they limit access. I know a great B&B you can stay at in Lima on the way...